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To shelter its cuisine, Italian city bans foreign flavors

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To shelter its cuisine, Italian city bans foreign flavors
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Until recently, Italians overwhelmingly ate Italian food, but a decade or more of immigration has seen a surge of new foreign food eateries.

Now, one city has declared that enough is enough. The walled, medieval bastion of Lucca, in the heart of Tuscany, wants no more of the kebab shops and Chinese restaurants that have sprung up along the cobbled streets of its centro storico, or historic center.

Lucca, a tourist hot spot that lies 40 miles from Florence, has declared a ban on the opening of any more "ethnic" food outlets in what it says is a campaign to preserve authentic Italian – or more specifically, Tuscan – culinary traditions.

The initiative, announced by the city council last month, has sparked an intense debate about whether it amounts to legitimate cultural protectionism in an age of rapid globalization, or an ugly manifestation of gastronomic racism.

Lucca 's center-right council, which passed the measure by 23 votes to 11, says ethnic restaurants betray Tuscany's culinary heritage.

Kebabs , curries, and couscous are now out, in favor of such local specialities as zuppa di faro, a grain-based soup, and torta di spinaci, a tart made with spinach.

The ban is staunchly supported by Italy's agriculture minister. "This is not a battle against anything or anyone, but a defense of our culture and our agriculture," said Luca Zaia, a member of the right-wing, anti-immigration Northern League , which campaigns for greater autonomy for Italy's rich north. "In Italy we have available 4,500 ...

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    • JDP JDP
      12 months ago


      One man's "cultural preservation" is another's "economic protectionism". While this particular example may seem a small thing, it is but the tip of the iceberg in how various countries and areas are combating both imports and "globalization" with what, when faced with the same tactics by their neighbors and trading partners, they often decry as "protectionism". There are "local content" laws in Canada and Europe covering everything from music played on radio stations to parts in cars to the names by which certain products (perhaps almost chemically equivalent!) can be named (think certain cheeses and wine products). Countries also have "local ownership" laws for many or all businesses (India) or for just some "critical industries" (US - airlines). So the hue and cry about the US stimulus containing language giving preference to buying American steel with American taxpayer's money to ensure the creation of American jobs is more than a bit hypocritical.
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